So here’s a summary of the issues I’ve confronted.
I’ve linked the problem to the page where I’ve covered it in my blog
TTI MOUNTS
ENGINE POSITION –Using these adapter mounts you can expect an extreme pinion angle, a crooked engine and very little valve cover clearance on the right side inner guard (as viewed from the driving position) with an A body installation.
The problem lies with the left side mount – the pedestal is too high – pushing the motor up at the front and across .
FIX – In Australia you can use the Hemi 6 cylinder K frame and mounts devised by Elko/Valiant spares, OR
FIX – Use Andrew Dunnet’s K Frame/Mount conversion kit which is superb
FIX – Have the left side TTI mount modified, OR
FIX – Centre the engine,
FIX – Make a custom K member
HEADERS
STEERING BOX CLEARANCE – Thought I’d found a solution with Street and Performance shorty headers. These work a peach on the left side…but foul on the aussie steering box and are probably NOT going to work on a R&P conversion.
FIX – In Australia / NZ – Simple answer..budget for custom headers.
FIX – In the US – Use TTI headers and the Dodge RAM truck Hemi manual trans starter motor.
OIL SYSTEM
MILODON PAN GASKET – Variety of issues – Stud hole not large enough, splash trough not deep enough, etc
FIX – Do what I did…use the FACTORY splash tray/gasket and trim the ears off it and drill two extra holes to match the Milodon pan.
Then………………
If it leaks – then COMBINE with the Milodon cork rail gasket for a happy marriage between the tin pan and pan rail.
OIL FILTER – The TTI adapter mounts foul on the TTI block off plate.
FIX – Some small grinding required.
Or,
FIX – Run a Dakota angled filter mount – a shorty filter and some grinding is required.
In any case, clearance for remote oil hoses is tight between the auxiliary oil ports and the Alt.
ELECTRICAL
ALTERNATOR CLEARANCE:
The early 5.7 AND 6.1 Car Alt sits too low and fouls the A body frame rail
FIX – Provided the engine mount problems are fixed…the Jeep Cherokee 6.1 Alt provides more clearance to the inner guard.
Or,
FIX – Buy a March pulley kit system
Or,
FIX – Clearance the inner fender fold.
REGULATOR CONNECTOR – The modern G3 Alt. has a twin post external regulator socket.
FIX – Connect one to the F(-) and one to 12V switched.
CURRENT – The G3 Hemi Alts can make 150 or 160 amps – This will fry the old factory ammeters at full load.
FIX – Fit an extra “shunt” wire that runs from the Alt. post to the starter relay – this “splits” the current and makes it highly unlikely your car will ever draw enough load through the existing Alt wire to cook your ammeter. Use 10 or 12 gauge wire.
COMPATIBILITY – The 6.1 runs non-compatible senders to the later MSD Hemi 6 ECU harness.
FIX – Buy later 5.7 Cam and Crank sensors.
ENGINE BAY
BRAKE BOOSTER (Aussie only)
COIL PACK INTERFERENCE – The aussie V8 brake booster is not a happy marriage with the coil on plug valve covers. Basically any re- positioning of the booster in the bay, or cutting of the booster bracket, will still not allow enough room to be able to remove either the #6 or #8 coil packs for plug removal.
FIX – Relocate the booster to a remote system, The MC will also need to be re-positioned on a off set bracket as coil pack clearance is necessary, OR
– Use the offset bracket from Elko / Valiant Spares and a Hemi 6 booster
FIX – Run a Hydro booster
STARTER
CLEARANCE – The two rear most pan bolt lugs on the left side interfere with the body of the Mopar mini-starter.
FIX – The two left rear-most oil pan bolt lugs cast into the block must be trimmed back to allow clearance for the starter when using the Mopar mini starter.
Or,
FIX – Use a 2005 Ram starter. (This may interfere with TTI headers)
RADIATOR
INLET/OUTLET – LOCATION AND DIAMETER – There is no direct compatible radiator for the A Body / G3 6.1 conversion.
FIX – Champion makes a “B Body 6.1 radiator” P# CC1643 – however although on the correct side – the inlet / outlet pipe diameters are reversed.
They ARE on the correct side however– so …………
Fix – Use Gates universal hoses – 1 x p# 25526 (13″), 1x p#25527 (15″)